Nikko isn't one of the Japanese towns you hear much about. It's not a big city, it's not home to big industry, and it was never harmed by Allied bombing during WWII. But for those who learn about the history of Japan, a visit to Nikko can almost be considered a pilgrimage.

Located in mountainous terrain a couple hours north of Tokyo, Nikko has been famous in Japan for centuries. It has the beauty of the mountains, it's close to the very scenic Lake Chuzenji (chuzenji-noko), it has hot springs, and there have always been highly regarded shrines in the area. But in 1616, it gained something that makes it unique in Japan.

The first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu, ended centuries of warfare when he united Japan in 1603. This was the beginning of the "Edo era," when Edo became the functional capital of Japan. (The Emperor still ruled in Kyoto, but the Shogun ran the country from Edo.) Japan flourished as never before. With time and money no longer devoted to war, the government was able to establish a stable society. The samurai, less in demand as warriors, turned to the arts. And the townspeople were finally able to live their lives in peace.

All of this history makes Nikko important because it is the home of Ieyasu's tomb. The Toshogu Shinto Shrine, built in Nikko in 1616 by Hidetada (Ieyasu's son) and redesigned to its current splendor by Iemitsu (Ieyasu's grandson), is renowned in Japan for its elaborately ornamented architecture. Most Shinto shrines are rather austere, making this shrine a standout (or an eyesore, in the estimation of some). I'll reserve comment on this aspect of the shrine, as I'm writing this before actually seeing it.

As someone who loves the art made possible by a world Ieyasu essentially created, it's hard to imagine what I'll feel when I visit his grave. It's true that I've probably walked pretty close to his footsteps (in the vicinity of the foundation of Edo Castle, for instance), but a place so specifically dedicated to his memory is a pretty big deal. You'll read much more about this when I write about my day in Nikko.

There are other cool things about Nikko, so the trip isn't just an homage to the Shogun. Here are a few other things I'll be looking forward to:

Ieyasu isn't the only one enshrined here. There is also a shrine to Iemitsu, his grandson. Iemitsu was the one who closed Japan to the outside world, established a pervasive social structure, and brought the daimyo (regional governors) under his control. Ieyasu made the Edo era possible, Iemitsu made it what it was.

There is also the shinkyo, a sacred bridge crossing the Daiya River (daiyagawa). According to legend, Nikko was first settled by a hermit who was carried across this part of the river by two serpents. In the feudal times before the Edo era, this bridge was used only by the Emperor. In more modern times, the bridge was the subject of woodblock prints by many renowned artists. It's a must-see.

This has nothing to do with history, but it may be the coolest thing for a visitor from North America... Nikko has monkeys! Japanese Macaques, to be specific. They're wild, but they seem to coexist just fine with the visitors. As long as you don't hold eye contact. They consider that confrontational. So I'll be doing my best not to stare at the monkeys. And I'll be holding on to my camera with both hands - they have a habit of grabbing things that are grabbable. I don't want to have to wrestle with a monkey.