After Tokyo, Kyoto is possibly the best-known city in Japan. With about a million and a half people and a history stretching back more than 1,200 years, Kyoto is not to be missed by anyone traveling in Japan.

Little is known about the early history of Kyoto. The geography suggests that it would have been populated - it's situated in a long north-south river valley surrounded by mountains to the north, east and west, and open to the Yamato Plain to the south. Kyoto itself is a logical place for a city, located at the confleunce of the Kamo and Takano Rivers.

In the 8th century, the capital in Nara was becoming an uncomfortable place for the Emperor. Over time, the Buddhist monks had built up considerable popular and political power in that area, and were trying to exert influence over the government. The only way to end this pressure was to move the capital. The city of Heian-kyo was chosen, and soon after it was renamed Kyoto ("capital city").

Over the years, Kyoto also became the cultural capital of Japan. Some of it was brought from China and Korea, but much of what we think of as traditionally Japanese sprang up on its own. Theater, music and the world's first novel, The Tales of Genji (genji monogatari) written in the 11th century by a lady of the Imperial Court, all came from Kyoto.

Kyoto is still known as a genteel city, well-mannered and artistic. It has no heavy industry, but does serve as the home of several large electronics firms, such as Kyocera (coined from "Kyoto Ceramics"), OMRON, and a playing card manufacturer that started doing business in the 1800s and became a household name all over the world because of a little plumber named Mario.

As for sightseeing, Kyoto has a lot to offer. There's a castle, countless temples and shrines, and some some well-preserved older districts like Gion. There is also the Imperial Palace. Kyoto was the Imperial capital from 794 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, when the capital was moved to Tokyo. The existing palace was built in 1855 - it had been rebuilt and moved several times after being destroyed by fire.

The Palace is part of my plans, but I'll have to jump through hoops to get there. All visitors must sign up at least 24 hours in advance, and there are just two tours per day conducted in English. And that's assuming the Emperor isn't in town, which shuts down the tours.

Kyoto will also be my base of operations for day trips to Nara and possibly the burial mounds of pre-Kyoto emperors, outside Osaka. With seven days to spend in Kyoto, there are lots of other possibilities.